I'm jealous...love N. Italy..
First, make sure you have the sim card loaded properly (I had three verizon techs do it wrong) and your phone recognizes it options>advanced options>SIM Card...there should be an ID number.The rest depends on your plan...when I travel overseas, I get the global phone package (I think $4.99/month) which reduces the per minute charge. I disable email (disable when roaming) as I use my computer for this. You will be able to receive phone calls almost immediately if it is set-up right. (again I emphasize to make sure it is correct BEFORE you go). You can also do data plans, but they are pricey...your phone will essentially work exactly as it does here. BTW, I highly recommend getting set-up on skype with your family and you can video call them for free!!!!
Ciao
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